17:15 〜 18:45
[AOS16-P11] Spatial variability of low frequency waves on a reef platform in the Taiwan Strait
キーワード：Low frequency waves, coral reef, laboratory experiment, swell
In recent years, the sustainable development of the ocean has become a global trend indicator within the Sustainable Development Goals. Coral reefs, known for nurturing diverse species, are considered essential ecosystems. Numerous studies have indicated that the unique porous structure of coral reefs could effectively resist incident wave energy and alter coastal hydrodynamics. However, coral reef environments around the intersection of tropical and subtropical regions are frequently influenced by strong storm waves. Therefore, understanding the mutual relationship between waves and coral reef topography is beneficial for nearshore protection and construction projects.
Bird Island, a reef platform in the Taiwan Strait, has been selected as the research site. Laboratory experiments were carried out to observe wave characteristics on reefs. The numerical model XBeach-SB is utilized to simulate short waves and low-frequency waves. The research aims to simulate spatial variations of wave fields by ecological coastal features, observe the impact of low-frequency waves on the reef platform, and verify sediment transport. The preliminary results show wave transformation in the cross-section and wave diffraction around the reef platform. Sediment transport and the formation of sand deposits may also be related to low-frequency wave motions. The results indicate an intricate connection between coral reef topography and surrounding wave field variations.
Bird Island, a reef platform in the Taiwan Strait, has been selected as the research site. Laboratory experiments were carried out to observe wave characteristics on reefs. The numerical model XBeach-SB is utilized to simulate short waves and low-frequency waves. The research aims to simulate spatial variations of wave fields by ecological coastal features, observe the impact of low-frequency waves on the reef platform, and verify sediment transport. The preliminary results show wave transformation in the cross-section and wave diffraction around the reef platform. Sediment transport and the formation of sand deposits may also be related to low-frequency wave motions. The results indicate an intricate connection between coral reef topography and surrounding wave field variations.