日本地球惑星科学連合2025年大会

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[J] ポスター発表

セッション記号 A (大気水圏科学) » A-OS 海洋科学・海洋環境

[A-OS21] 沿岸域の海洋循環と物質循環

2025年5月26日(月) 17:15 〜 19:15 ポスター会場 (幕張メッセ国際展示場 7・8ホール)

コンビーナ:永井 平(水産研究教育機構)、中島 壽視(東京大学大気海洋研究所)、日髙 弥子(鹿児島大学)、牛島 悠介(愛媛大学)

17:15 〜 19:15

[AOS21-P02] Field observations and numerical modeling of rip currents in a fringing coral reef channel

*呉 衡1内山 雄介2御手洗 哲司1 (1.沖縄科学技術大学院大学、2.神戸大学大学院工学研究科)

キーワード:離岸流、サンゴ礁

Rip currents in rocky coral reefs have been seldom studied, despite their dynamics potentially differ from the well-studied sandy shore rip currents due to the complex bathymetry.

To investigate the formation and duration of bathymetric rip currents occurring in a channel within a fringing coral reef, we combined flow observations with idealized numerical modeling.

Field observations were conducted using an Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP) to measure flows in the rip channel and an ADCP or a moored surface buoy to measure the incoming wave condition offshore. The data revealed a strong correlation between rip current occurrence and significant wave height, a moderate correlation with onshore wind, and a much weaker negative correlation with tidal elevations.

To further explore the formation and structure of these rip currents, we developed an idealized numerical model using the Coastal and Regional Ocean COmmunity model (CROCO). The model incorporated satellite-derived bathymetry and was forced with monochromatic waves on the offshore side of the domain. Multiple tests were performed under varying wave conditions and the results were compared with field observations.

This study provides new insights into the dynamics of rip currents in coral reef environments, contributing to improve safety measures for water activities in Okinawa and similar coral reef areas.