Japan Geoscience Union Meeting 2021

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[J] Oral

A (Atmospheric and Hydrospheric Sciences ) » A-OS Ocean Sciences & Ocean Environment

[A-OS15] Ocean circulation and material cycle in coastal seas

Fri. Jun 4, 2021 9:00 AM - 10:30 AM Ch.09 (Zoom Room 09)

convener:Naoki Furuichi(Fisheries Technology Institute, Japan Fisheries Research and Education Agency), Akihiko Morimoto(Ehime University), Kazuhiko Ichimi(Faculty of Agriculture, Kagawa University), Daisuke Takahashi(Tokai University), Chairperson:Naoki Furuichi(Fisheries Technology Institute, Japan Fisheries Research and Education Agency), Akihiko Morimoto(Ehime University), Tomaso Esposti Ongaro(Istituto Nazionale di Geofisica e Vulcanologia, Italy), Sakshi Ramesh Shiradhonkar (Department of Environment Systems, University of Tokyo)

9:45 AM - 10:00 AM

[AOS15-04] Numerical study on wave breaking and refection processes on steep bottom slope

*Tsuyoshi Kaneko1, Yoshihiro Ohmura2, Naoki Furuichi2, Shinya Saeki1 (1.Aratani Civil Engineering Consultants CO.,LTD., 2.Japan Fisheries Research and Education Agency)

Keywords:wave breaking, reflection coefficient, breaker type

Wave breaking, reflection, and wave-induced currents are thought to play important roles in forming nearshore environment and distributions of fish or bivalve larvae. In this study, we investigated the features of wave breaking and reflection processes over steep bottom slope under several conditions of wave height and wave period, using a vertically two-dimensional numerical model. The numerical experiments reproduced several types of wave breaking processes, i.e., plunging, surging, and non-breaking, and demonstrated that the reflection coefficient increases with increasing bottom slopes and decreasing wave steepness (ratio of wave height to wave length). On the basis of the calculated results, we proposed a formulation for estimating the reflection coefficient under regular wave condition.